In the summer of COVID-19, travel is not what we expected. At a time when we can’t take planes and travel to exotic lands, there’s an imperceptible shift to a more nostalgic era of travel. There’s something about road trips that remind me of childhood, but also of a decade before my time. Maybe it was being in California, a mix of old Hollywood glamour and Wild West films. Whatever this sense of magic was, I believed the secret ingredient could be found on long dusty roads and desert sunsets. And this was what I found on our drive up the majestic Highway 395.
Day 1: Kern County
We took an unconventional route from Los Angeles to Kern County so we could take a white water rafting trip with our friends. The Kern River is nestled just under the Sequoia National Forest (which if we had time I would have loved to visit!) We arrived at Lake Isabella for sunset and had dinner in the small town nearby.
There’s a quicker way up to Highway 395 on California State Route 14, so this is an optional spot. But if you’re into water adventures, I’d definitely recommend booking a white water rafting trip on the Kern River if you’re traveling in the right season!
Day 2: Lone Pine
This day was spent white water rafting on the Kern River! After rafting, we drove the 2 hours up to Lone Pine. The sun was still glaring down when we arrived, and it was close to 100° as we checked into our hotel, the Dow Villa Historic Hotel & Motel. On your way up to Lone Pine, you’ll actually pass a junction that would take you right to Death Valley. The town’s proximity to Death Valley will give you an idea as to why it felt like we were inside an oven!
Lone Pine and the motel are right on Highway 395. Because there’s only one road up the Eastern Sierras, all the towns are right alongside the highway. We managed to find a Mexican restaurant that offered sit-down dining. There were no other guests in the restaurant so it felt safe to dine-in. After dinner, we drove over to Alabama Hills, about 10 minutes away, to catch the sunset.
I was really hoping to make it to the famous Movie Road, known for exactly what the name means. Old Western films and even newer blockbusters like Iron Man and Gladiator have been filmed in this area. Unfortunately the road leading up there was riddled with potholes so we opted to save our car the trouble and take some shots where we could park.
We had a bit of a sleep-in, partially because we were afraid to venture out into the desert heat. At 9am it was already well into the 90s! When it was time to check out, we decided to drive over to Mt. Whitney Picnic Area for lunch. Little did we know that the drive would take us through the desert and right up the mountains. We gained a couple thousand feet in elevation, and the temperature dropped to the low 80s! When we got out of the car we were surrounded by majestic stone mountains, tall alpine trees, and a cool breeze. Crazy to think we were in the desert heat just minutes before!
Given that the weather was so refreshing, we decided to hike to Lone Pine Lake after lunch. Lone Pine Lake is about a third of the way up to Mt. Whitney, which is the tallest mountain in the continental United States at 14, 505′ high. We saw many overnight backpackers coming back down on our way up, and I’m definitely inspired to try the whole hike one day!
The hike up to Lone Pine Lake is 6.5 miles roundtrip, with an elevation gain of 1,900 feet. We were definitely a little short of breath given the altitude, but the hike the whole way up was full of jaw-dropping views.
We finished the hike in about 5 hours (1 hour dedicated to chilling at the lake and taking photos) and started the drive up to Big Pine an hour away. On our drive there, we came across the most amazing sunset right on the highway! I’ll never forget the way the sky seemed so expansive, the road so wide and straight, and the mountains so tall. This was the kind of magical scene I was craving when I imagined what it would be like to drive up Highway 395.
We arrived in Big Pine and checked into Bristlecone Motel. We were really hoping to camp sometime during this trip but didn’t have enough daylight to find a good camping spot. Also, we were in need of a shower after hiking all day. There aren’t many accommodation options in Big Pine. The Bristlecone Motel is actually behind a gas station, which was a funny experience that gave me that nostalgic vibe.
Day 4: Big Pine Creek
Today was the big day – the reason I had decided to take this trip in the first place. I saw a photo of a turquoise blue glacial lake and snowcapped mountains on Instagram and knew I wanted to see that landscape with my own eyes.
Big Pine itself was also really hot, but the due to the elevation of the hike we were able to find a bit of salvation from the heat. We were prepared to hike the Big Pine Creek North Fork Trail, part of the Inyo National Forest and along the John Muir Wilderness Trail. There are actually 7 Big Pine lakes and a glacier along the trail, and would usually require several days to complete the circuit. Our goal was just to get the Second Lake, which was 10 miles out and back.
With our legs still sore from the Lone Pine Lake hike the day before, we set out on our journey. The beginning leg of the trail takes you along a creek and up a waterfall. You can scramble down to the waterfall if you’re brave and sit at the edge for a thrilling view!
The trail is long, but a very steady elevation so we didn’t feel as out of breath as we did the previous day. Soon enough, a sign pointed us to First and Second Lakes, which are only minutes from each other. We caught a glimpse of the deep blue waters of the First Lake, but I was eager to see the views at the Second Lake. And it definitely didn’t disappoint. We enjoyed a Taco Bell burrito with these amazing views.
Coming back down was brutal – the trail seemed like it was never going to end and I felt like my toes were going to fall off. Finally, we made it back to the parking area and felt so proud and accomplished!
That afternoon, we drove up to Mammoth Lakes. As we went even higher in elevation, the landscape and foliage started to change. We noticed more pine trees instead of desert shrubs, and taller mountains. The temperature was also cooling down. We checked into the Sierra Lodge and immediately showered off the dirt and sweat from our long hike.
For dinner, we grabbed a pizza to go and wanted to watch the sunset at Minaret Vista. We weren’t the only ones with that idea, as the area was packed with cars and people. Some seasoned visitors brought chairs, blankets, and even tripods to capture the sun going down. Yosemite National Park lay just behind the Minarets, and we were bummed we couldn’t get a reservation to visit (because of COVID, they were limiting access by requiring a reservation to visit).
Day 5: Mammoth Lakes
Mammoth is known as a ski town, but there are still many activities to do in the summertime! As the name suggests, there are quite a few lakes to explore and water activities to partake in.
Twin Falls Overlook
You can drive right up to this iconic overlook, right above the Twin Lakes Falls.
Lake Mamie
Just across the street from the Twin Falls Overlook is Lake Mamie. There were a few people snorkeling and one boater, but other than that it was very still and peaceful.
Convict Lake
Though not technically in Mammoth Lakes, Convict Lake is only a short drive away and worth seeing. There were a few other spots I wanted to explore around the Mammoth region but it was time to make our way back to Los Angeles.
Convict Lake is a very popular summer destination, and it’s huge. There’s also trail that takes you partially around the lake so you can see views from different angles. I took a quick dip here before heading off on our drive.
Other Things to Do Near Mammoth
Here are a few spots I had bookmarked but didn’t have the time to visit:
- June Lake
- Mono Lake
- Hot Creek Geological Site (the road is unpaved)
- Wild Willy’s Hot Spring
- Travertine Hot Springs
- Yosemite National Park!
I am already planning my next trip up to this area, fingers crossed that I get to visit Yosemite this time!
