Completing a solo overnight hike was one of my main goals in New Zealand, and the Tongariro Northern Circuit came highly recommended by everyone I talked to.
Tongariro National Park is the oldest park in New Zealand, a dual World Heritage Site, and home to three active volcanoes. It’s also more popularly known as the set of Mordor in the Lord of the Rings movies, for all you film buffs out there.
Instead of doing the full 3-day circuit, my plan was to extend the Tongariro Alpine Crossing (regarded as being one of the best day hikes in the world) into a 2-day/1-night trip. It would be the perfect stepping stone into the world of solo overnight hiking.
To get to the park itself, I arranged a ride in Wellington with two backpackers who had rented a relocation car. They were driving north to Auckland and dropped me off halfway at Tongariro National Park Village. I stayed overnight at The Crossing Backpackers. FYI this hostel is everything you’d want in a hostel. It’s located on a farm with horses and pigs, and they have a secret cinema room (go and find it for yourself!). The hostel arranged a shuttle to take me to the start of the trail and pick me up the day after for $35.
I dragged myself out of bed early the next morning to meet the shuttle, which dropped us off at Mangatepopo car park. Despite the 33L heavy with warm clothes and more than enough food, I was pretty much floating on adrenaline.
The first section of the track was easy and flat, but I was thrown off guard by the sheer number of people hiking alongside me. It felt like Disney World, and all the talking and crowding made me wish I had done the full circuit instead of just this popular day section.
As the track quickly steepened, I tried not to think about how easily one could plunge to one’s death while scrambling down loose rocks. Thankfully, the views of the Emerald Lakes and the Red Crater distracted me from any morbid thoughts.
After the Emerald Lakes, I finally turned off the Alpine Crossing and headed towards Oturere Hut. I was suddenly alone in the middle of the expansive Oturere Valley. The 4.8km walk to the hut took me through a fascinating land of lava formations, dry shrubbery, and a black ash desert. I took my time here, happy to finally get some peace and quiet. It was the closest thing to what I imagine being on the moon is like.
When I arrived at the hut in the late afternoon, all I wanted was a fresh pair of socks and a cup of tea. The hut was cozy, with a gas burner and kettle. There were 26 people in total that night, and we all got along really well playing cards and chatting the evening away. Despite being from different age groups, countries, and backgrounds, we all bonded over the physical journey and our love for the wild.
Sleep itself was not great. We were all basically sharing one long bunk bed, so any snore or slight movement sounded like a train crash. I woke up early to watch the sunrise, but unfortunately it was too cloudy. After breakfast, I said goodbye and ventured off alone again. I headed through the volcanic valley back to the Emerald Lakes to join up with the day track before the crowds came.
Where I had sunny, cloudless skies on my first day, the weather on the second day was foggy, windy, and cold. I could barely see a few steps ahead of me, and completely missed out on the Blue Lake and any views of the valley below.
It was about a 1.5 hour walk to the Ketetahi Hut, which was damaged by a 2012 volcanic eruption that left ghastly holes in the roof and bed. From there, it was about 7km more to the car park. The terrain dramatically changed into a lush forest complete with a gushing stream and impressive waterfall – you would have never guessed that I was walking through barren volcanic craters just hours before. When I finally reached the car park, I was a little sad that the adventure was over but also pretty excited for a shower.
Before the hike, I was hoping to channel my inner Cheryl Strayed à la Wild. I don’t think I quite reached that level, but was still immensely proud of myself. It was a strenuous physical challenge and, life changing revelations aside, a tough mental exercise as well. I’ve also garnered a whole new respect for nature. Never have I felt so small than when I was walking alone in that immense valley, the sheer breadth of uninterrupted wilderness surrounding me on all sides. It was mind-numbing to think about how every rock, crevice, and stream had been carved from centuries of natural movement. How small and meek humans are in comparison to how old and powerful the earth is. Nature can’t be conquered, overly revered.
